Magwa Falls and Magwa Tea Estate in Pondoland, South Africa

The name Magwa – what is your first thought association?

Magwa Falls? Magwa Tea Estate?

The beautiful, much photographed Magwa Falls are a 40 minute drive from Lusikisiki, a small town about 40km inland from the where the waves of Indian Ocean crash on to the isolated, magical beaches of the Pondoland Wild Coast. Lusikisiki is 45km from Port St Johns on the R61 road.

Magwa Falls, at 146m, are the highest falls in the Eastern Cape. They are part of the Egosa Fault, which resulted in the formation of many precipitous cliffs and narrow gorges being formed north of Port St Johns. Waterfall Bluff, where the Mkozi River plunges straight in the ocean, is also part of this faulting. Fraser Falls and Angel Falls which are close to Magwa Falls were caused by erosion.

Magwa Falls are on the very short Mzizangwa River, which has its headwaters slightly inland. The falls are best viewed from the southern side, which is reached by crossing the river at the top of the falls. Being very shallow and rocky, the river can be crossed all year round, except after heavy rains, when it rises fast. Of course, in full flood, it is truly magnificent.

A local villager carries firewood across the top of the Magwa Falls.

The Magwa Falls are most easily reached by driving towards the coast from Lusikisiki. Take the cement road which leads to the Magwa Tea Estate, turn into the tea estate, and follow the road. You will pass the Magwa Tea factory and many tea fields. When the road comes to an end, stop, put the handbrake on, before you start walking. At this stage, you will see nothing but grassland and forest. Don’t be fooled – there is a deep gorge ahead, and the forest is on the other side of the gorge. Go slightly upriver, where it is safe to cross. There are usually young boys around who will show the easiest way across the river. Unless you’re a really good jumper, you will have to take your shoes off.

View from the southern side of the gorge; between the grass and the tea bushes, there is a deep chasm.

On the other side of the river, the well-worn path will take you to the best look out points – enjoy this magnificent sight – but be careful, there are no fences to stop you slipping, should you go too close.

A number of cars lie at the bottom of the gorge, one from an accident in the early 1970s: sightseers left their car, started walking towards the falls, but something made them turn back and take their sleeping baby out the car. The car started rolling shortly afterwards, and it went straight over the edge, and bits of yellow metal can still be seen at the bottom.

In another incident a few years ago, a car with passengers in it, went over the edge, killing the occupants. Jealous lovers, drug dealers and hired hit men are speculated about, but what the true story is behind this incident, remains a mystery.

Magwa Falls seen from the bottom of the gorge. Photo: Courtesy C. Reid.

Magwa Tea Estate, through which you drive, was started in the 1960s. It produces a high quality black tea, for the South African market. It is not blended with any other tea, and is a pure, ‘Proudly South African’ single origin tea. The estate has had its fair share of ups and downs due to political interference and bad management, which eventually resulted in closure for many years.

Magwa Tea Estate is once again producing tea. Above right: tea tins from a previous era.

Magwa Tea Estate has been revitalized, re-opened and with good management, Magwa Tea Estate is once again producing great tea, which is served by many accommodation establishments on the Wild Coast.

To get to Magwa Tea Estate and Magwa Falls, take the concrete road on the right, just outside Lusikisiki, when coming from Port St Johns. Follow the signs. If you carry on down to the coast, you will get to Mbotyi river Lodge, which is an excellent place to use as a base when exploring the Wild Coast.

The Galavanter cooling off in a pool above the Magwa Falls.

Kathryn Costello's avatar

By Kathryn Costello

I travel. I read. I get up to mischief. I write about what I have been up to. I also have fun writing down the stories that I told my daughter when she was little about a dolphin named Michaela. I am a tourism consultant. Owning and managing a successful guesthouse, working for tourism organizations and travelling has given me a lot of insight about what makes a tourism orientated business successful.

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