A trip up the Sani Pass

A trip to the Underberg and Himeville is, in my opinion, not complete without a trip up the magnificent Sani Pass and into Lesotho, for lunch, and a drink, at the highest pub in Southern Africa, at the Sani Mountain lodge at 2867 metres above sea level.

The Sani Mountain lodge is situated at the border of Lesotho and South Africa, and overlooks the pass, which is an extremely steep road with many switchbacks.

First traversed by vehicle in the 1940s, the road was always regarded as extremely difficult. Even today, with the first section, as far as the South African border post having ben tarred, the section between the South African border post and the Lesotho border, about 8km, is 4 x 4 country.

Leaving Himeville behind, and right: the South African border post.

Historically, what is now a sensational road, was a bridle path, and was used to convey goods between South Africa and Lesotho, by donkey, mule and oxen. At the ruins of the oldest trading station, a pillar had been knocked over. Our guide was extremely angry, as it looked like vandalism by unknown persons. Another vehicle came along – and gave us the correct reason for the damage: an eland had used the pillar as a rubbing pole, and had been a bit too enthusiastic!

The name Sani is probably derived from a shortening of the name of a District Chief who ruled the area in the 1890s, Chief Rafolatsanes, and not as many believe, named for the San or Khoi peoples.

The mountains and often the road, is covered in snow in winter, and the many waterfalls are frozen, and this winter wonderland with frozen waterfalls is the perfect setting for photographic snowscapes.

The vegetation ranges from grassland to protea subspecies; the suikerbossie being quite prolific. Above the snow line, just grasses and alpine flora occurs. Many bird species call the harsh environment home, and mammals include eland, grysbok, Mountain Rhebuck, Rock hyrax (dassie) and Sloggett’s Ice Rat.

If you don’t have an off road vehicle, or don’t want to do the drive yourself, there are a number of tour operators in Underberg who will make your trip so much better, because having someone else drive you, means that you won’t have to concentrate on the road, and you can then enjoy the awesome scenery. And a bonus: you can have a few drinks at the Sani Mountain Lodge! Don’t forget to support the local spaza shops and buy some Maluti beers, brewed in Lesotho to take home with you.

The local spaza shops have a great sense of humour, advertising free beers, with Ts and Cs.

Major Tours in Underberg are my preferred tour operator. Their driver guides are experts on everything from the history, to the geology to the fauna of the area. A day trip will also take you to visit a Basotho village, where you will be welcomed. As with in all rural districts, do buy some of the local handicrafts, and add to the economy of the area.

Should you chose not to go back down the Sani Pass, you can cut right across Lesotho. Most of the roads are excellent, and tarred; real wonders of engineering, made by the Chinese. Avoid the A3. I’ve done a lot of 4×4-ing across Africa, but I was scared on that road. If you cut across this tiny mountain kingdom, make it worth your while, and pop in to Maseru, maybe Roma too.

The Basothos build with stone, as it withstands the harsh winters.

Of real interest to me were the dinosaur footprints (yes, real ones), which are north of Maseru, near Leribe in the Subeng River area. Three species of dinosaur have been identified from their prints; one being the Lesothosoarous, named for Lesotho. This was a small ( tiny by dinosaur standards – about 90cm in length), plant-eating dinosaur. More footprints are in the Roma area, and in southern Lesotho.

The Subeng river near Leribe, and a close up of a dinosaur footprint.

Enjoy your trip to Lesotho, soak up all the wonderful vistas, swim in clean streams (in summer), throw snowballs in winter. Ride a Basotho Pony , buy a Basotho hat, learn some Sesotho, and don’t forget to support the local economy by buying arts and crafts.